Nott What You'd Expected...

Czech Please.....

Most dramatic, intriguing stories begin with an equally dramatic opening. After reading enough John Updike to kill most non-literaphiles, i'm in the mood. How's this: After traveling for 8 hours on trains that would make most ex-Soviets cringe at their poor shape, we arrived in Prague today (Praha for the natives) to a warm welcome consisting of No English, No idea what we were doing, and eventually, a completely topless (completely is a misnomer, she was wearing a feather boa) waitress who brought stien after frothy stien of Czech beir to our table, and our first taste of steak in over 3 months.

So, now i sit, Aaron to my left checking the Twins homepage, uploading pictures and blogging for what might be one of my last chances in a FREE. that's right, FREE internet lounge in our hostel.

What has happened since my last post? S0 much freedom here in a free environment, and the gang is so lame, i feel like i have all night....
Chemonix (yes, i realize this was days and days ago...) ended on a postive note, a quiet night of wine, sleep, and some light reading concluded our quintissentially 'chill' stay at the French resort town. We played a homemade version of Loaded Questions, cooked most of our meals in the kitchenette, and enjoyed each others' company. Cutesy, yes. Relaxed, double yes.

The trip to Salsburg took us on a somewhat depressing journey through Switzerland. Aaron and the Girls (sans Mary, who was and will continue to be my travel buddy) left us at some point, while we truged on to Zurich, through Bern, past the German border, back into Austria, and finally to our desitnation in Salsburg. The towns on the way (have i explained this before? this feels repetitive) were sad, industrial wastelands on the verge of collapes. Crappy houses, decrepit gardens, and broken down autos. Aside from UNBELIVEABLE mountain views and trecherously slow train rides through the Alps, it was a downer. Sorry John, Switzerland has some growing on me to do (never fear, Geneva for Christmas will blow me away....)

Hil met us in the train station, and i suppose my last entry (although rushed and distracted by the beauty and wonder that is Julie Andrews blaring in the background) explains Salsburg as much as any person could.... Here are some pics to recreate the magic:


Our trip to Prauge this morning was less than perfect. We were Aaronless, Kateless (she's off on her own until Geneva), and feeling sluggish. A late wine-session last night in my private suite (which was soon turned un-private thanks to a Hungarian nomad carrying a bottle of what appeared to be a Coke ripoff named Cock - no joke) left us all a little under the weather, and more testy than normal. Add some EuroTrash girls on a 7am train to Linz, and you have the makings for a mass-homicide onboard a EuroLine train.....

A stayover in Linz, highlighted by a quick espresso, a trip to the biggest newstand EVER, and a quick stop to buy earplugs did not reflect the mood of the rest of our trip. In what can only be described as a trip through what can only be described as desolate iowan farmland meets war torn post-Soviet oppression, Eastern Austria and the Czech Republic is downright depressing. We passed a hodge podge of buildings- train stations that resembled movie sets from WW2 movies, homes with spanish tiled roofs and outdoor jokes of swimming pools, and farmland as far as the eye could see.

After some encounters with the train security/liason from hell and a pack of unruly teenagers who spraypainted and put graffiti on the adjacent train compartment, a feeling of superiority, fear and pessimism overtook me. This country seems so far behind, so delapidated, so pathetic both economcially and socially. The train was disguisting- it reeked of cigarette smoke and urine, the seats were covered in grime and soot, and graffiti was everywhere. The kids ran through the halls, jumped around, yelled, and banged on our doors.... The feeling that overtook me could onlyu be described as "TYPICAL STEREOTYPED AMERICAN SUPERIORITY AND EGOTISM"...

The feeling has somewhat dissuaded, but my first impression still remains fairly accurate. In this country, where English is used only to get tourist money or as a third language spoken after Czech and German, I feel rich, more intelligent, civilized, and cultured. It's wrong, it's sad, it's totally counterproductive to the entire European Travel experience, but at this point, it's nagging at me. I feel sorry for the poverty, the lack of clothing on the waitresses, and the excess of drugs and alcohol. Maybe America is just as bad, but i'm too blind to notice because of the veil that the English language has put over me- maybe i'm just more able to understand the language that i don't have to focus on the other cues? I'm digressing....

Sometimes, especially after my recent assults on my poor notepad, it's hard to tell what i've presented here and what i've attempted to recreate on paper....

To summarize our night, we arrived in a flurry of confusion- no English signs, no understanding of the subway system. After frustrating group quarrels and the silent treatment, we found our trains, found our bus station, found our bridge, and found the hostel. The conditions here are amazing.... a huge room, beautiful accomodations...

The restaurant we went to was hilarious.... i didnt' take any pictures, but my face more or less explains our feelings as we noticed how bare our waitress was.....

Tomorrow looks to be an exploratory mission- see the sights, get as much in as we can, and try some of the local beers (original Budwieser, and Staropramen), and maybe see some castles while we're at it.

This blog was epic, but it felt good to recreate some memories...

At this point in the trip, i'm feeling good- i'm looking forward to each day, and Paris and Geneva especially...... Calling my feelings homesick would be another misnomer- again, it's not the lack of family here or the lack of Christmassy feelings, it's the inability to share or contact family with the immediacy that a phone call or personal conversation would. I love you all, and look forward to more great experiences....




*I lied, pics aren't loading... i'll try more later......

posted by Kevin @ 9:07 PM