3.31.2007

Avignon time Gone

Writing from the saftey of a dirty internet cafe in the belly of Marseille (MAR-SAY), I'm finally given a chance to recover.

Avignon was amazing, and will be hashed out at length, but my journey from the land of 9 Popes (In no way is it ever called that) to Marseille was something that I, and anyone who is around me after a few pints, will ever forget.

To build suspense, Avignon first:

Avignon, at least the part out by the TGV station a short jaunt from the centre of town, is a sunbaked, flat, Mediterranean gem- in our trip from Dijon through Lyon, vinyards and white/tan sand-like earth stretched as far as the bleary eye could see... We emerged from the station to find the air hot and the sun shining. A good omen for the amazing assembly of cultural and out-of-this world happenings that would accompany our days here.

Kate and I found the hotel, right on the strip, within sight of a MASSIVE 18 FOOT GOLDEN VIRGIN MARY that stood over the Notre Dame (keep in mind, there are maybe 8 churches called Notre Dame in every city... there are as many Notre Dames as there are hair stylists, which again outnumber grocery stores 8:1)
We dropped our crap at the Regina Hotel, and found the amazing square, the main space in the town right before the Plais Papas (I have no idea... the old Palace of the Popes, which again, was the other white papal establishment during the 1300s)- It was amazing, the buildings seemed to rise out of the rock - half ancient arcitechture, half nature- it was awe inspiring, the size and detail involved.
We visited the church, and wandered around for more food and toiletries to sustain us on the rest of the trip... The sun was bright, and my now sunburned neck proves it- We made it back to the room, when all of a sudden a loud commotion of people outside drove us to the balcony of our room....

I looked down and saw a huge crowd gathering- there were reporters, paparazzi, common folk, and tourists alike- we grabbed our cameras and made our way to the front of the fray... Kate and I had no knowledge of French pop culture, and so I did what everyone else did- took pictures of the wierd guy with the grey hair who was giving an interview to France 3, a national news organiztion.
Close pics in hand, we went back to the hotel, where the lady at the front desk informed us that it was in fact Francois Beyroux, a Presidential canditate in the election next month.
Score.
I napped, Kate explored, and we chilled for the night. Watched Blood Diamond, passed out.

The next day, we visited museum after museum, while stopping into bakeries to rate pasteries and eat gellato on the side... We visited an ancient bridge that streches across the River Rhone, that was built by a mildly insane now Saint in around 1100. (the night pics were from our last night in Avignon)
Our first museum, of papal art, contained the fattest Christ I have ever seen. If I see another 'Virgin and Infant" again, i'll puke.
We packed a lunch, and basked in the glory of the French sun, while Italian school children on vacation played football in the square. Some kids even had Italian flags, and the rowdy girls started World Cup-like chants... all in the shadow of one of the most incredible sites in history...
From there, we visited the actual palace, a tour that contained only 20 of the hundreds of rooms- This picture is from what I call 'the House on Pope Corner' thank you, Kenny Loggins, for furthering my heracy...
From the top of the palace, we glanced into the square and saw the makings of a movie set. Kid you not. Actors milling about, cars and motorcycles ready for stunts, and tons of young go getters doing grunt work. Not being the kind of people that just let a movie set go by, Kate and I sat nearby and soaked up the glory that is French movie making.
Turns out it's just a made-for-tv movie called something like 'Prophecie au Avignon' or something... I'll still imdb.com it later....

We got out of the sun, grabbed some gelato, hit the hotel, napped, ate some Vietnamese food, blogged, and walked along the river. Tres atmospheric.

Kate left early in the morning, and I read until making my way to the train station.

end of Part I. Part II includes medical emergencies, vomit, uncontrolled bowels, beautiful sunsets, and gout. or something.

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